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Bahía Solano

2 months ago
Is another of my favorite destinations apart from Nuquí. It is also on the Pacific and furthur up the coast.. Loke Nuquí there is no road access from the interior. You can only arrive by plane or boat. Arriving in Bahía Solano by plane from Medellin there are two tourist options. You can take a Tuk Tuk about forty minutes to El Valle or a lancha about twenty minutes to Playa Huina. I've visited the former three times, the first in the year 2000 and Playa Huina twice.
El Valle is a fishing village on the open Pacific coast. At high tide the waves are huge and dangerous. At low tide the beach stretches a half a kilometer to the sea. During migration it is a popular destination for seeing Humpbacked whales and there are a couple of (pricy) cabañas compounds out on the beach a twenty minute walk from the village that cater to whale watching tourism. In 2000 I stayed at Hotel El Valle right in the village and in subsequent visits at the same hotel now called Posada Ecoturistica El Valle. During the first visit there wasn't much electricity and electric was supplied by generator to a few locations and my hotel had one. However one day it broke down and the owner Janeth said there was a German engineer in the village (he was illegal and twenty years later Migracion got him) who could fix it but we'd have to wait til he was sober. On a more recent visit I was sitting on the veranda at the back of the hotel overlooking the beach and there was avery chatty little girl about nine years old, daughter of the empleada who regaled me and my companion with a charming story about how she and a companion had covered up the eggs a sea turtle had left uncovered that morning and with no segue said you see those two guys on the beach? They're looking for cocaine.

Play Huina is quite different. It is near the end of the cove where Bahía Solano is located and protected from the open ocean. As such there are no big waves and not much tidal movement. Its mostly cheap vacation caba?as owned by paisas with a couple of lodges at either end of the beach. I stayed twice, a number of years apart at El Refugio Mr Jerry. On the first visit Jerry was the host He was a Dutchman and had everything imaginable available for guests including sailboarding, scuba diving and deep sea fishing. The strip is backed by jungle and hikes are possible to waterfalls and an Indian settlement deep in the forest. At the lodge the rooms had bookshelves packed with paperbacks if you wanted to read. I ended up taking one with me that I hadn't finished but returned it to him a year later when he and his wife (who lives in Cali) visited me at my finca. On my second visit Jerry was in Cali with prostate issues and his wife was running the lodge. Sadly Jerry died and his wife sold Refugio Mr Jerry. It has new owners and is very visible on Google but I don't know what its like to visit now.

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