I have lived in Ecuador and specifically in Guayaquil for many years now. Over the years we have had several instances where we have been victims or direct witnesses to violent and non violent crimes. I know that most expats here likely do not see much of the danger that lurks here. As business owners and administrators I thought it might be helpful if I share some of our experiences and insights with you. I dont pretend to know everything and I don't wish to scare anyone unduly. I simply hope that perhaps by sharing my thoughts it might help others to be a bit safer wherever they might live.
We own and operate a couple of large cash flow businesses here in the Guayaquil area. Those businesses are not located in tourist areas and we cater only to the locals. These areas are located in unsecure areas. While the businesses are lucrative, running them can be somewhat dangerous to say the least.
As business owners here we try to be prepared for everything. While we hope for the best, we do need to plan for the worst. Things like robbery, kidnapping, extortion and corruption on all levels is common. The underbelly here is something not generally seen by most expats, but it is alive and well.
Driving within Guayaquil is usually stressful. Drivers are unfriendly, aggressive and pay little attention to lanes and rules. If you choose to drive in Guayaquil, as we must, just remember its like a game. The main objective is to not strike nor to get struck by another vehicle. Be careful not to get offended by other drivers or to be involved in any sort of roadrage. Few drivers have insurance and almost almost no one will stop if they caused the crash. If there are injuries, the police will likely make a 'preventative' arrest of both drivers until one is able to prove his innocence. Remember here one is always presumed to be guilty and the burden is yours to prove your own innocence. Court costs and fines are extremely high. From speeding tickets of $110 to stopping in a crosswalk or driving in a bus lane with fines of $393 for first offense and $786 for the second offense. Most offenses are registered against your vehicle registration and based on the camera evidence from the tens of thousands of cameras staged throughout the city. If you rent a car, you will be notified of and pay those fines when you turn in the car. If you own the car you will be notified of those fines as you re register your car each year. Fines for my vehicles last year cost me more than $1,000. Buses are cheap within the City at .30 cents and depending on the area can be relatively safe. Taxis are also available at very reasonal prices. Safety is generally better or worse, depending on the area, the time of day and whether you have chosen a 'secure' taxi, a regular, marked taxi, or an unmarked and unauthorized taxi. When our children, (who are now adults) take a taxi, they take a selfie with the taxi showing the plate and driver and send it to us before getting into the car.
Our biggest concern while in Guayaquil is always our own personal safety. We wear no jewelry, If my wife must carry a purse, she does so only strapped over head and shoulder. We never use a cell phone on the public street or sidewalk. If we find it necessary to use the cellphone, we step into a shop or store, off the street and out of sight. If we have children or grandchildren with us, we always hold their hands between us and remain constantly vigilent. We try to always be attentive to our surroundings, never trust anyone including the police, and carry only necessary cash and copies of passport or identification. The only original ID I ever carry is a drivers license and maybe a debit card if I need to use it that day. I try not to carry anything that I am not willing to lose. When leaving a bank or the airport I constantly watch to see if we are followed. I make a point to make a complete turn around, (roundabouts are great for this) at least twice during each such trip on the way home to see for sure that we arent being followed. I have never detected someone following us but if I did I would certainly not want them to follow us to our home or business, or be able to force us off the road. I would consider instead going to the nearest UPC Police station and ask for an escort. Or maybe consider entering a secure parking such as a Mall where they would be unlikely to want to enter.
The downtown and especially The Bahia are full of pickpockets as well as robbers. We work together for our own personal safety. I always keep my wallet in a front pocket. If we are in heavy crowds, we walk in single file. She keeps watch to the front and I take care of the rear. In crowds I keep my hand on my wallet while if she has a purse (which is seldom) she carries it strapped over her head and shoulder and held tightley with her arms. And yes, she has had her purse ripped off her and the strap cut in the past. I have been robbed of a cell phone and cash downtown in broad daylight.. Police generally are not interested in a robbery unless there is serious injury or a loss of over $1,000 dollars. If your are robbed at gun point you should realize that the perpetrator is very serious and will likely shoot for little or no reason. Give up anything you have and dont cause a fuss. For this reason you should plan accordingly when you leave the house, only bringing necessary cash and other items you can afford to lose. When taking large amounts of cash to or from the bank, we sometimes pay the local police to assist us. One of us will ride in their patrol unit with the cash, followed by a second patrol unit and then the other one of us takes up the very rear in a private car simply to be assured that the police do their job and take us to the requested destination. Again, never trust anyone.
At our business locations we use various means to assist with our safety and that of our employees. We use high walls and electrified fences as well as electric doors and hydraulic gates. We have large camera systems that record and save to the cloud. Our employees work in shifts as the businesses run 24 hours a day and 7 days a week. Cash boxes are used during each shift. With a small safe that carries enough change to keep the cash box running the entire shift.
Additionally we have a cash drop chute to a secure safe that is used several times a shift. That way the shift cash box never has more than a couple of hundred dollars at any given time. In each business we have an audible alarm system with buttons placed in strategic locations throughout the employee and management work areas as well as the administrator living quarters. We give the local police some incentives to give us extra patrol throughout the nights. As you might guess, we have had some issues over time but we resolve them as quickly as possible and then make any necessary changes to prevent similar issues in the future.
I guess its possible some may think that the security measures we take are a bit to much. But I prefer to error on the side of our personal safety. Our family has suffered here or been witness to several crimes over time. Some years ago one of our daughters was drugged and kidnapped while waiting for a bus after school. Many days later her beaten, abused and unconcious body was thrown from a car in the southern part of the city. My wife has had her purse straps cut and purse stolen. I have been robbed of a cellphone and cash. Our children have been robbed of their backpacks, cellphones and Ipads. We have been witnesses to other assaults and kidnappings as well. And our business has also fended off attacks. My sister-inlaws pig farm was robbed just outside the city. Her employees and family members were kept hostage while trucks came in and out throughout the night hauling away their pigs, motorcycles and everything that was of value. We have friends and aquantances who have had their children kidnapped so their families could be extorted of their money.
While many of these things seldom happen to expats, it is important to know what is happening around you so that you can better keep yourself and your loved ones safe. Live and stay in the safer areas of the big city. In Guayaquil or other large cities consider gated communities, condiminiums and locations with controled entrances, cameras and security guards.
A few rules to live by in the city... If you feel you have to go out and party in the big city, do so only in groups, Stay with the group. Dont get drunk. Dont share drinks. Dont leave your open drink unattended. Use only secure taxis. Don't go to 'motels' with prostitutes or people you dont know well and dont bring prostitutes or people you dont know well to your home. And very simply be careful not to make yourself a target..
I'm sure many of you can contribute to a list of things to do and not to do to keep ourselves safe.
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