Ecuador
This is long. *Very* long. Do not read if you don’t want one man’s opinion of a recent visit to Ecuador. Just skip it. I assure you know one will show up at your house and force you to read it.
So…a funny thing happened on the way to Chile…a detour to The States. Before heading off again in two days to Brazil. Not much time on the forum. I will endeavor to make a few chronological and somewhat random observations of my trip to Ecuador. I will then attempt to reply, again in chronological order, to certain posts I have been reading. My time remains limited until mid-February or so.
So…for my first observations…I will beg the indulgence of both the site administrator and readers alike. I assure you that I will tie these into Ecuador by the end of this lengthy post. Everything in between will be purely Ecuador.
On my way to O’Hare Airport, quite ironically, I was pondering the fate of the U.S. airline industry. An industry, which under extremely tight regulations and near monopolies had floundered, well into the 1970s and had come to resemble a quasi public-private venture, as one would find in a Socialist environment, rather than the capitalist enterprise we tend to envision. Then the advent of the 1980s ushered in the deregulation of the airline industry. The one consistent factor was that as a pre-1980s quasi-private industry or as a post 1980s deregulated private enterprise…the U.S. airline industry has floundered …flopped …and financially under-performed. So much so that Times magazine touted a story in March 2003 under the banner “U.S. Airlines: From Bad to Nationalized?” actually suggesting that we might need to turn back the hands of time and re-regulate…quite possibly nationalize…the airline industry. Things have only gotten worse since 2003.
Why is this relevant to Ecuador or my trip? Be patient, grasshopper. But I will tell you now how the relevancy first came into play at O’Hare Airport. So, I am standing talking to my wife…minding my own business at O’Hare, having just arrived. When in a slightly raised Southern drawl, I could hear a man, who I was to learn resided in Alabama, saying something very much like this, “%#!&**#! [And other “very bad” words] airlines. Pretty soon it is going to cost more to pay for our luggage than the kids.” He recited this to no one in particular, although one could deduce he was talking to his wife, who was doing her best to pretend she didn’t know him. He did so, as his 4 children, who I was to learn ranged from 12-19 years of age, walked several paces behind him distracted by headphones…cell phones…and carting several pieces of luggage each. His wife also had several pieces of luggage. The gentleman seemed armed for a very different trip, as I am pretty sure he was going to survive on a very small carry on and a gym bag. Point is we chatted. He outlined for me his outrage at the cost of checking in luggage and the impact it was having on his family’s vacation time. Oh, he admitted that even in “…the old days…” he would have checked in a fair amount of luggage, but he bemoaned the excessive baggage fees and the “…ridiculous…” regulations that made it harder and harder to carry on anything aboard a commercial airplane.
This early dialog left me curious…more aware. I actually hovered near the baggage check-in line…my wife busy many steps away from me…also trying to pretend like she wasn’t with me…as I eavesdropped on complaint after complaint about excessive U.S. airline luggage fees and the pettiness and arbitrary nature of carry-on policy. It left me wondering…one of those “Things that make you go hmmmmm” moments. With a, once again, floundering airline industry, how much of our “strict carry-on” policy is driven by “security” and how much of it is really being driven by a need to find a way to attain greater revenue for mostly floundering U.S. airlines [Kudos to Southwest for staying “above the fray”]? If the latter, how far-reaching…how willing…is our government to go and create “security issues” in order to support private enterprise? If any truth lies in this arena, then are we truly a capitalist society, where businesses survive and fail on their financial merits, or are we a Socialist state that has government creating policy to prop up dying private-sector enterprises?
I was again reminded of this in another “Things that make you go hmmmm” moment. Why is it against security regulations for me to bring in a bottle of Coca-Cola from my home, due to the security risk, but perfectly ok for me to buy the exact same bottle of Coca-Cola, once I have passed all security check points and find myself at the terminal gate? Wouldn’t the risk be greater then? You can’t honestly tell me that the answer lies in how carefully vendors are vetted for security purposes? Not with all the readily searchable stories of vendor security breaches at airports across the U.S. Then why the policy? Things that make you go hmmmmm.
So, on we went onto the plane. Landing in Guayaquil’s lovely airport. Mind you, I may well be the only person on the planet that finds it “lovely”, but for me it is a highly efficient and navigable airport. I arrived to a short wait in the Immigration line. A super-fast and efficient Custom’s processing, where my Customs form was handled and reviewed precisely once (more on this later). I then went into the main “transportation area” where – “aghast”, I encountered the “dreaded” professionally trained security forces, armed with machine guns, which have been described here in this forum by others as somewhat akin to life in a concentration camp. My reaction was the mirror opposite. I felt safe. Safer than at O’Hare Airport. I had actual professionally trained, well-armed security personnel, being proactive in the pursuit of their security function, even to the point of escorting one to their vehicle. Wow! Now that is security! I just can’t understand how the U.S. can alarm us with threats of travel Armageddon…then supply us with slack-jawed, under-armed, under-trained security personnel at the airport. Either the threat is real, in which case I’d rather see security like that found in Ecuador, or the threat is a myth, in which case…what are we all enduring the travel angst for? But criticizing Ecuador’s airport security as “excessive” seems unjustified in the light of the coverage that the “international security threat” receives.
Loading into the vehicle provided by our hotel, we drove through the city streets of Guayaquil, in the heart of the night. I thought to myself…feel safer in these neighborhoods than on my way to Midway Airport (Chicago), but not as safe as on my way to O’Hare Airport. Fair…balanced… observations. Upon arriving at the Oro Verde Hotel in Guayaquil, I was reminded throughout my stay that in Ecuador, I could still get the personalized “white glove” service for $145/night that is hard to come by in the U.S. for less than $300-$350/night. Next, departed for Salinas. Four-lane, well-paved highway all the way. The ride barely takes 90 minutes. Not a single pothole in sight. Wonder why with all of the wealth in the U.S., I can’t remember being on a seamless highway like this, except in rural Virginia, where pork-barrel funds are diverted from heavily-traffic congested Northern Virginia, to build “roads to nowhere” in the southwest region of the state. I also can’t help but note all the active construction projects on the road between Guayaquil and Salinas. Some are public-private ventures to meet Correa’s demand for affordable housing. Some are purely “for profit” private ventures. Either way, I just know that the “no growth” and the “environmental crowd” can’t be happy with all the development. I’ve always wondered if the building industry and the anti-growth crowd couldn’t do more to be civil, set aside their differences and perhaps reach a better compromise.
I arrive in Salinas. Typical Salinas and coastal Ecuador weather in the Ruta del Sol region. Perfect 80-degree weather. Brightly sunny. Yet not at all humid, as the perfectly cool Pacific Ocean breeze keeps the temperature feeling very comfortable. I am reminded of this every single day of my stay, as the temperature never falls below 72 degrees and never rises above 87 degrees…but those highs feel breezy, mild and not at all stifling (like Miami humidity) or scorching (like Las Vegas dry sizzle heat). My wife and I agree that we will never need air-conditioning. The breeze in our unit suffices. No a/c is ever used on the trip. Note to myself that the tourism crowd, while healthy, seems a little less than normal. Ponder that it might be just a one-day coincidence. It wasn’t. The global economy and the rolling brownouts have taken a slight toll on Salinas’ tourism industry. Not quite the normal “madhouse” at this time of year. Although even this has to be put in perspective. At least half the days there still included the ubiquitous rainbow-colored umbrella covering associated with the beach area…just that in years past, this would have spilled over into the streets. Not this year. More orderly. Less of a zoo. Although friends pointed out that New Years Eve was the normal raucous madhouse and that Carnivale promised the same.
Began exploring the area anew. Things noted. Less of a police presence than in the past. Is crime down for this already extremely low-crime area or are we witnessing police staffing cuts or reassignments? Doesn’t much matter. Did not note a single incident of even petty crime throughout my entire stay. Peaceful…serene…safe…much more so than Chicago, as I was reminded yesterday when literally almost across the street from my condo, some loony with a handgun was running around Northwestern University’s Law School campus. Noted more U.S. “Americans” as a relative ratio to Europeans, than I have in the past. Don’t get me wrong, the European presence is still strong…but the U.S. “Americans” are closing the gap, if not outright surpassing the Euro presence. Noted the number of Guayaquil and Quito resident visitors remains strong, but was shocked by the extremely strong presence of Cuenca residents. They were everywhere…and very cordial and nice indeed. Wondered if the fact that the developer of the building in which I own a unit coming from Cuenca had any influence? Coincidence? Perhaps. New hotel going up on the Malecon. Might be slanting it as a “condo-hotel”. Hope not the latter. Several other new hotels on the Peninsula. Positive trend. The “Grand Dame” known as the Barceló Colon Miramar still dominates the hospitality market. Folks need more choice. The Grand Dame needs more comparable competition. Oro Verde where are you? I know…I know…the whole minimum year-round population issue…but how about a smaller Oro Verde? Something. High-end smaller residential projects can be seen in various parts of Salinas. Pacific Ocean front units priced between $200,000-$350,000. Look…a pure bargain by global standards, but you don’t have to pay that much unless you want “top-of the-line” (and even then)…and if you are willing to walk a block or two to the beach…and that beautiful ocean front…then you really can shave a very sizable percentage off that price. I did not pay anywhere near that much for my ocean front condo...and it was no bargain. Still, couldn’t help but note that some of those more expensive units were selling. A more affordable tower with ocean views is being built. A moderately priced “sister building” to the one in which I own will be coming on line as well. Both of the latter are on the Malecon. One building stalled on the Malecon. A victim of the global economy. Its carcass lies in sharp contrast to the rest of Salinas, which seems vibrant, dynamic, alive…evolving (where to…I don’t know for sure). This one building blight needs to be purchased…finished…I am sure the local authorities could assist someone in acquiring a bargain opportunity. Some old favorite haunts are gone…new places have arisen to supplant them. The major local mall is thriving. Still only a scant 10 minutes away from the heart of Salinas. The super-maxi shopping complex remains vibrant. The latter only 5-6 minutes away from the heart of Salinas. Still, Salinas proper could use more retail. Not so much to compete with, but maybe to complement the Mall. The opportunity is there. I can’t tell you the number of tourists I spoke with that bemoaned not being able to find this or that within walking distance. Sure…a ten-minute drive, cheap as they are, isn’t much inconvenience…but still. The entire Santa Elena Peninsula is thriving. Punta Carnero is starting to really evolve and take off. Anconcito is transforming. Visited The Ocean Hideaway in Anconcito. Simply beautiful… serene …secluded…tranquil…very well maintained. If you don’t need to be in the heart of the strip action in Salinas…consider a quick 20-minute drive to Anconcito and a stay at The Ocean Hideaway. I was impressed. Noted that mother ocean was really churning. An area of the Salinas Malecon about a city block long was receiving mild flooding, as the ocean high tide at night would send waves crashing over the Malecon and onto the street. The well-placed gutter systems seemed a bit overwhelmed in this specific area. Still, crews would arrive every night…take care of the problem…and the next day…you’d never know the issue had occurred the night before. I wondered if that type of public works service still existed in the U.S. anywhere? Sure doesn’t in Chicago. The Salinas Airport, which is to house international flights, still seems under construction…but let’s just say that the construction pace does not appear to be happening at a rapid rate. Don’t buy here on the promise of the international airport…not unless you have a 10-year horizon or so. In either case…not really needed, although certainly highly desirable, as transportation from Guayaquil to Salinas is a breeze, by land or air. Overall, the stay was wonderful…I remain extremely impressed by Salinas and the entire Santa Elena Peninsula. Impressed enough that I have invested a small amount of my own money. Impressed enough that upon receiving permanent residency, I intend to look for other Peninsula investment opportunities.
However, I will cite one last local area example for perspective. Our condominium unit purchase was a resale. One of the few…perhaps the only resale in the very new building in which my wife and I have purchased. Upon inspecting our specific unit for the first time since closing, we noted that a few doors were a bit warped. Within literally 5 minutes a crew of 4 workers was at my door… inspecting all the woodwork. They tore apart door frames…removed doors…and, in essence, for what amounted to 2 slightly warped doors, replaced 4 door frames and 4 doors which they deemed “not up to standard” for a sum total cost of *zero dollars* to us. When I asked why…they simply shrugged that it was a quality of workmanship issue and that the developer wanted to keep new buyers happy. When I mentioned that my unit was not a direct developer sale, but a resale…they simply shrugged again and said…doesn’t matter. Where in the U.S. do you still get this level of developer attention to quality and customer satisfaction, for anything that isn’t custom-made and priced at $1 million and above…if at all? So, with no financial interest for this plug whatsoever, my hat goes off to Pablo Vintimilla (architect and developer) and his entire crew for an absolutely wonderful buying experience and service that goes above and beyond anything reasonably expected. If this is his level of service and quality throughout his projects, I certainly could recommend that folks strongly consider taking a look at his projects. I know the center of his business base is Cuenca.
As for Ecuador as a whole…I found a place at peace with itself. Some strongly pro-Correa folks…some strongly-anti-Correa folks…but mostly…probably 80%+ of the folks I talked with from all parts of the country (in Salinas, Ecuador comes to you…you don’t have to go out to the four-corners), they seemed neutral… watchful… satisfied…supportive of Correa as a man with a vision (finally)…but guarded as to whether his economic reforms would amount to much at “street level”. In other words, I don’t know where this alleged vehement “anti-Correa” sentiment some have alleged was hiding…but it wasn’t hiding on the streets of Salinas. Most of Ecuador is in a “wait and see” mode. The Communications Act is still being debated…going through the extensive public process Correa promised. The “Citizens Committees” are currently undergoing a structural alignment, with candidates putting forth their names and being selected to serve on a central council. Even more so than the Communications Act, these Committees still cause me some pause. If they become organs of regional civic action…with greater public input…then absolutely great! If they become a patronage network for PAIS…I am ok with that…because I grew up in the greatest patronage system of all time – The Daley Machine in Chicago. Some may not feel the same. However, if these Committees become something more…something else…something more intrusive in the daily lives of citizens…then I think they may well spell the end of the Correa administration, because Ecuador’s economy will suffer. As one businessman put it, “I can do business anywhere in the world. Today I choose Ecuador. If the government starts to come into my wallet or my home, I will pack up and do business elsewhere.” Speaking of business…the official Ecuador figures show unemployment being down. I don’t trust government figures. Normally, I’d just laugh cynically. However, I spoke to many Santa Elena Peninsula business-owners that were saying they were finding challenges in staffing open positions. The workers that had been banging on their door just a year ago were not only not banging…they weren’t even knocking…they were gone. An example, a location in Salinas that is licensed, open and ready to operate as a bar/restaurant is actively operating only the bar, for the lack of a cook. Examples like this were plentiful. Is it possible that Ecuador’s unemployment numbers are actually falling? I need more than one set of government stats and some collaborative anecdotal evidence…but I am watching. At the very least this goes against those claims I have seen posted that suggest economic “doom and gloom”. Overall, the sense I got from the people of Ecuador is that they recognize that they could be at a critical crossroads/juncture in terms of political and economic progress. They are hopeful…but guarded. Faith has taught them the former…historical experience the latter. And, as for faith, did I not see on this forum that the Catholic Church was “dead” in Ecuador? Even weekday masses were packed. I saw no less than three large, new Catholic Churches being built. Liberation Theology may still have a place in Ecuador’s theological realm, but the movement peaked in the late 1970s to early 1980s. It still exists…but not at the expense of more traditional Catholicism, which is thriving. Perhaps what some observed was the lack of full embracement of many of the social mores of the Roman Catholic faith, but this erosion has been occurring internationally for decades. Folks want to be “good Catholics”, but they don’t want the church parked in their living room, affecting every aspect of their daily lives. This I did sense in Ecuador.
In short, the trip was great…Ecuador was a joy. I can’t wait to relocate. On my trip back I waited in a long line at Immigration in the U.S., after walking what seemed like forever simply to get to the security check point. Again, I had to disrobe “for security purposes”…no such disrobing in Ecuador. Then another trek to Customs, where along the way 4 separate individuals had to look at my Customs form, before the final one finally accepted it. Four Customs form check points? Four? Is this really necessary? Ecuador seems to get by with one. This must be the new U.S. employment program model, where the only sector expanding is government hires. I knew…right then and there…I was back “home”.
I close on the preceding point, because way back at the beginning I promised to tie in the issue of U.S. airlines and silly airport policies to Ecuador. I meant it…there is a tie-in. In Ecuador, I continue to see a nation evolving. The U.S. is already a more evolved nation. Perhaps not by the standards of the deep and rich historical context of Europe or, say, China…but the U.S. is by some definitions more “evolved” than Ecuador. As Ecuador makes its future choices, I hope residents there will consider the U.S. airlines industry. An industry so overwrought with excessive government regulation and intervention that it limped into the 1980s as “damaged goods”. Then, as though expecting a miracle, the government deregulated the industry…handed the tattered mess completely over to the private sector and said, “Do something with this.” The private sector complied…and what they did was make an equal mess of it. Why? Well, if you ask me, it is because once private enterprise has been damaged by the excesses of government interference and regulation, even a return to saner private-sector policies cannot often undo the damage already done by decades of government mismanagement. Capitalism is not perfect…in fact, it sucks. It still sucks less than any other economic system we’ve come to develop thus far as a human race. As Ecuador evolves and as the people face critical crossroad decisions, I hope they will think twice before allowing solutions to fall away from the private sector into government hands. Or their future may soar only as brightly, as the U.S. airline industry.
I also hope that the people of Ecuador will not fall prey to the siren’s call. They will face many decisions on important political, economic and social factors, as their country continues to dynamically evolve. The siren will call…she will tempt you with “solutions” promising “security”… “economic relief”… “greater efficiency”. Don’t forget to ask the question…“At what price?” The solution isn’t always one more regulation…one more tax…one more civil liberty sacrificed. Otherwise, you wind up like the U.S., with ridiculous airport “security policies” that at best, do nothing to limit risk, while creating great inconvenience, and at worst are nothing more than smoke and mirrors to prop up failed enterprises. You wind up like the U.S. promising that just one more tax hike will provide the development funds required for progress…only to discover that the only folks who “progressed” are political cronies. You might find that, like in the U.S., you will be promised greater efficiency if only we can have your social security number…special ID…some similar nonsense…which when you wake up a decade or two hence you find has been used to trade efficiency for the loss of liberty. Sometimes…the solution does not reside in the siren's call… sometimes the best solutions are found in commonsense…basic liberties…and allowing for the spontaneous often chaotic process known as human nature…with fewer rules and greater creativity…with lesser taxes and more government spending accountability…with less of an emphasis on personal security and more of an emphasis on securing liberty, freedom and democracy. The U.S. has much to offer…much to emulate…but I hope the folks of Ecuador don’t buy into this model as the only solution...the only “right way”, just as much as I hope that they don’t knee-jerk reject everything they could learn from the “American” experience. If the former, the Ecuadorian people may also have to face a future replete with the dreaded horror of “Coca-Cola bottles at the airport”…if the latter, they may find themselves in an economic wasteland like Cuba. The Ecuadorian people deserve better than either. Their advantage is that only now are they shaping their future evolution.
If nothing more…I leave you with that thought…as Ecuador left me with the lingering thought of simplistic acts of sanity. Such as walking into one restaurant where smoking is not allowed…and walking two doors down to one where smoking was allowed. The taste of freedom…of choice…of liberty. So sweet in Ecuador…so bittersweet in the U.S. of today. What will Ecuador do, when the siren calls?
HGQ
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin
So…a funny thing happened on the way to Chile…a detour to The States. Before heading off again in two days to Brazil. Not much time on the forum. I will endeavor to make a few chronological and somewhat random observations of my trip to Ecuador. I will then attempt to reply, again in chronological order, to certain posts I have been reading. My time remains limited until mid-February or so.
So…for my first observations…I will beg the indulgence of both the site administrator and readers alike. I assure you that I will tie these into Ecuador by the end of this lengthy post. Everything in between will be purely Ecuador.
On my way to O’Hare Airport, quite ironically, I was pondering the fate of the U.S. airline industry. An industry, which under extremely tight regulations and near monopolies had floundered, well into the 1970s and had come to resemble a quasi public-private venture, as one would find in a Socialist environment, rather than the capitalist enterprise we tend to envision. Then the advent of the 1980s ushered in the deregulation of the airline industry. The one consistent factor was that as a pre-1980s quasi-private industry or as a post 1980s deregulated private enterprise…the U.S. airline industry has floundered …flopped …and financially under-performed. So much so that Times magazine touted a story in March 2003 under the banner “U.S. Airlines: From Bad to Nationalized?” actually suggesting that we might need to turn back the hands of time and re-regulate…quite possibly nationalize…the airline industry. Things have only gotten worse since 2003.
Why is this relevant to Ecuador or my trip? Be patient, grasshopper. But I will tell you now how the relevancy first came into play at O’Hare Airport. So, I am standing talking to my wife…minding my own business at O’Hare, having just arrived. When in a slightly raised Southern drawl, I could hear a man, who I was to learn resided in Alabama, saying something very much like this, “%#!&**#! [And other “very bad” words] airlines. Pretty soon it is going to cost more to pay for our luggage than the kids.” He recited this to no one in particular, although one could deduce he was talking to his wife, who was doing her best to pretend she didn’t know him. He did so, as his 4 children, who I was to learn ranged from 12-19 years of age, walked several paces behind him distracted by headphones…cell phones…and carting several pieces of luggage each. His wife also had several pieces of luggage. The gentleman seemed armed for a very different trip, as I am pretty sure he was going to survive on a very small carry on and a gym bag. Point is we chatted. He outlined for me his outrage at the cost of checking in luggage and the impact it was having on his family’s vacation time. Oh, he admitted that even in “…the old days…” he would have checked in a fair amount of luggage, but he bemoaned the excessive baggage fees and the “…ridiculous…” regulations that made it harder and harder to carry on anything aboard a commercial airplane.
This early dialog left me curious…more aware. I actually hovered near the baggage check-in line…my wife busy many steps away from me…also trying to pretend like she wasn’t with me…as I eavesdropped on complaint after complaint about excessive U.S. airline luggage fees and the pettiness and arbitrary nature of carry-on policy. It left me wondering…one of those “Things that make you go hmmmmm” moments. With a, once again, floundering airline industry, how much of our “strict carry-on” policy is driven by “security” and how much of it is really being driven by a need to find a way to attain greater revenue for mostly floundering U.S. airlines [Kudos to Southwest for staying “above the fray”]? If the latter, how far-reaching…how willing…is our government to go and create “security issues” in order to support private enterprise? If any truth lies in this arena, then are we truly a capitalist society, where businesses survive and fail on their financial merits, or are we a Socialist state that has government creating policy to prop up dying private-sector enterprises?
I was again reminded of this in another “Things that make you go hmmmm” moment. Why is it against security regulations for me to bring in a bottle of Coca-Cola from my home, due to the security risk, but perfectly ok for me to buy the exact same bottle of Coca-Cola, once I have passed all security check points and find myself at the terminal gate? Wouldn’t the risk be greater then? You can’t honestly tell me that the answer lies in how carefully vendors are vetted for security purposes? Not with all the readily searchable stories of vendor security breaches at airports across the U.S. Then why the policy? Things that make you go hmmmmm.
So, on we went onto the plane. Landing in Guayaquil’s lovely airport. Mind you, I may well be the only person on the planet that finds it “lovely”, but for me it is a highly efficient and navigable airport. I arrived to a short wait in the Immigration line. A super-fast and efficient Custom’s processing, where my Customs form was handled and reviewed precisely once (more on this later). I then went into the main “transportation area” where – “aghast”, I encountered the “dreaded” professionally trained security forces, armed with machine guns, which have been described here in this forum by others as somewhat akin to life in a concentration camp. My reaction was the mirror opposite. I felt safe. Safer than at O’Hare Airport. I had actual professionally trained, well-armed security personnel, being proactive in the pursuit of their security function, even to the point of escorting one to their vehicle. Wow! Now that is security! I just can’t understand how the U.S. can alarm us with threats of travel Armageddon…then supply us with slack-jawed, under-armed, under-trained security personnel at the airport. Either the threat is real, in which case I’d rather see security like that found in Ecuador, or the threat is a myth, in which case…what are we all enduring the travel angst for? But criticizing Ecuador’s airport security as “excessive” seems unjustified in the light of the coverage that the “international security threat” receives.
Loading into the vehicle provided by our hotel, we drove through the city streets of Guayaquil, in the heart of the night. I thought to myself…feel safer in these neighborhoods than on my way to Midway Airport (Chicago), but not as safe as on my way to O’Hare Airport. Fair…balanced… observations. Upon arriving at the Oro Verde Hotel in Guayaquil, I was reminded throughout my stay that in Ecuador, I could still get the personalized “white glove” service for $145/night that is hard to come by in the U.S. for less than $300-$350/night. Next, departed for Salinas. Four-lane, well-paved highway all the way. The ride barely takes 90 minutes. Not a single pothole in sight. Wonder why with all of the wealth in the U.S., I can’t remember being on a seamless highway like this, except in rural Virginia, where pork-barrel funds are diverted from heavily-traffic congested Northern Virginia, to build “roads to nowhere” in the southwest region of the state. I also can’t help but note all the active construction projects on the road between Guayaquil and Salinas. Some are public-private ventures to meet Correa’s demand for affordable housing. Some are purely “for profit” private ventures. Either way, I just know that the “no growth” and the “environmental crowd” can’t be happy with all the development. I’ve always wondered if the building industry and the anti-growth crowd couldn’t do more to be civil, set aside their differences and perhaps reach a better compromise.
I arrive in Salinas. Typical Salinas and coastal Ecuador weather in the Ruta del Sol region. Perfect 80-degree weather. Brightly sunny. Yet not at all humid, as the perfectly cool Pacific Ocean breeze keeps the temperature feeling very comfortable. I am reminded of this every single day of my stay, as the temperature never falls below 72 degrees and never rises above 87 degrees…but those highs feel breezy, mild and not at all stifling (like Miami humidity) or scorching (like Las Vegas dry sizzle heat). My wife and I agree that we will never need air-conditioning. The breeze in our unit suffices. No a/c is ever used on the trip. Note to myself that the tourism crowd, while healthy, seems a little less than normal. Ponder that it might be just a one-day coincidence. It wasn’t. The global economy and the rolling brownouts have taken a slight toll on Salinas’ tourism industry. Not quite the normal “madhouse” at this time of year. Although even this has to be put in perspective. At least half the days there still included the ubiquitous rainbow-colored umbrella covering associated with the beach area…just that in years past, this would have spilled over into the streets. Not this year. More orderly. Less of a zoo. Although friends pointed out that New Years Eve was the normal raucous madhouse and that Carnivale promised the same.
Began exploring the area anew. Things noted. Less of a police presence than in the past. Is crime down for this already extremely low-crime area or are we witnessing police staffing cuts or reassignments? Doesn’t much matter. Did not note a single incident of even petty crime throughout my entire stay. Peaceful…serene…safe…much more so than Chicago, as I was reminded yesterday when literally almost across the street from my condo, some loony with a handgun was running around Northwestern University’s Law School campus. Noted more U.S. “Americans” as a relative ratio to Europeans, than I have in the past. Don’t get me wrong, the European presence is still strong…but the U.S. “Americans” are closing the gap, if not outright surpassing the Euro presence. Noted the number of Guayaquil and Quito resident visitors remains strong, but was shocked by the extremely strong presence of Cuenca residents. They were everywhere…and very cordial and nice indeed. Wondered if the fact that the developer of the building in which I own a unit coming from Cuenca had any influence? Coincidence? Perhaps. New hotel going up on the Malecon. Might be slanting it as a “condo-hotel”. Hope not the latter. Several other new hotels on the Peninsula. Positive trend. The “Grand Dame” known as the Barceló Colon Miramar still dominates the hospitality market. Folks need more choice. The Grand Dame needs more comparable competition. Oro Verde where are you? I know…I know…the whole minimum year-round population issue…but how about a smaller Oro Verde? Something. High-end smaller residential projects can be seen in various parts of Salinas. Pacific Ocean front units priced between $200,000-$350,000. Look…a pure bargain by global standards, but you don’t have to pay that much unless you want “top-of the-line” (and even then)…and if you are willing to walk a block or two to the beach…and that beautiful ocean front…then you really can shave a very sizable percentage off that price. I did not pay anywhere near that much for my ocean front condo...and it was no bargain. Still, couldn’t help but note that some of those more expensive units were selling. A more affordable tower with ocean views is being built. A moderately priced “sister building” to the one in which I own will be coming on line as well. Both of the latter are on the Malecon. One building stalled on the Malecon. A victim of the global economy. Its carcass lies in sharp contrast to the rest of Salinas, which seems vibrant, dynamic, alive…evolving (where to…I don’t know for sure). This one building blight needs to be purchased…finished…I am sure the local authorities could assist someone in acquiring a bargain opportunity. Some old favorite haunts are gone…new places have arisen to supplant them. The major local mall is thriving. Still only a scant 10 minutes away from the heart of Salinas. The super-maxi shopping complex remains vibrant. The latter only 5-6 minutes away from the heart of Salinas. Still, Salinas proper could use more retail. Not so much to compete with, but maybe to complement the Mall. The opportunity is there. I can’t tell you the number of tourists I spoke with that bemoaned not being able to find this or that within walking distance. Sure…a ten-minute drive, cheap as they are, isn’t much inconvenience…but still. The entire Santa Elena Peninsula is thriving. Punta Carnero is starting to really evolve and take off. Anconcito is transforming. Visited The Ocean Hideaway in Anconcito. Simply beautiful… serene …secluded…tranquil…very well maintained. If you don’t need to be in the heart of the strip action in Salinas…consider a quick 20-minute drive to Anconcito and a stay at The Ocean Hideaway. I was impressed. Noted that mother ocean was really churning. An area of the Salinas Malecon about a city block long was receiving mild flooding, as the ocean high tide at night would send waves crashing over the Malecon and onto the street. The well-placed gutter systems seemed a bit overwhelmed in this specific area. Still, crews would arrive every night…take care of the problem…and the next day…you’d never know the issue had occurred the night before. I wondered if that type of public works service still existed in the U.S. anywhere? Sure doesn’t in Chicago. The Salinas Airport, which is to house international flights, still seems under construction…but let’s just say that the construction pace does not appear to be happening at a rapid rate. Don’t buy here on the promise of the international airport…not unless you have a 10-year horizon or so. In either case…not really needed, although certainly highly desirable, as transportation from Guayaquil to Salinas is a breeze, by land or air. Overall, the stay was wonderful…I remain extremely impressed by Salinas and the entire Santa Elena Peninsula. Impressed enough that I have invested a small amount of my own money. Impressed enough that upon receiving permanent residency, I intend to look for other Peninsula investment opportunities.
However, I will cite one last local area example for perspective. Our condominium unit purchase was a resale. One of the few…perhaps the only resale in the very new building in which my wife and I have purchased. Upon inspecting our specific unit for the first time since closing, we noted that a few doors were a bit warped. Within literally 5 minutes a crew of 4 workers was at my door… inspecting all the woodwork. They tore apart door frames…removed doors…and, in essence, for what amounted to 2 slightly warped doors, replaced 4 door frames and 4 doors which they deemed “not up to standard” for a sum total cost of *zero dollars* to us. When I asked why…they simply shrugged that it was a quality of workmanship issue and that the developer wanted to keep new buyers happy. When I mentioned that my unit was not a direct developer sale, but a resale…they simply shrugged again and said…doesn’t matter. Where in the U.S. do you still get this level of developer attention to quality and customer satisfaction, for anything that isn’t custom-made and priced at $1 million and above…if at all? So, with no financial interest for this plug whatsoever, my hat goes off to Pablo Vintimilla (architect and developer) and his entire crew for an absolutely wonderful buying experience and service that goes above and beyond anything reasonably expected. If this is his level of service and quality throughout his projects, I certainly could recommend that folks strongly consider taking a look at his projects. I know the center of his business base is Cuenca.
As for Ecuador as a whole…I found a place at peace with itself. Some strongly pro-Correa folks…some strongly-anti-Correa folks…but mostly…probably 80%+ of the folks I talked with from all parts of the country (in Salinas, Ecuador comes to you…you don’t have to go out to the four-corners), they seemed neutral… watchful… satisfied…supportive of Correa as a man with a vision (finally)…but guarded as to whether his economic reforms would amount to much at “street level”. In other words, I don’t know where this alleged vehement “anti-Correa” sentiment some have alleged was hiding…but it wasn’t hiding on the streets of Salinas. Most of Ecuador is in a “wait and see” mode. The Communications Act is still being debated…going through the extensive public process Correa promised. The “Citizens Committees” are currently undergoing a structural alignment, with candidates putting forth their names and being selected to serve on a central council. Even more so than the Communications Act, these Committees still cause me some pause. If they become organs of regional civic action…with greater public input…then absolutely great! If they become a patronage network for PAIS…I am ok with that…because I grew up in the greatest patronage system of all time – The Daley Machine in Chicago. Some may not feel the same. However, if these Committees become something more…something else…something more intrusive in the daily lives of citizens…then I think they may well spell the end of the Correa administration, because Ecuador’s economy will suffer. As one businessman put it, “I can do business anywhere in the world. Today I choose Ecuador. If the government starts to come into my wallet or my home, I will pack up and do business elsewhere.” Speaking of business…the official Ecuador figures show unemployment being down. I don’t trust government figures. Normally, I’d just laugh cynically. However, I spoke to many Santa Elena Peninsula business-owners that were saying they were finding challenges in staffing open positions. The workers that had been banging on their door just a year ago were not only not banging…they weren’t even knocking…they were gone. An example, a location in Salinas that is licensed, open and ready to operate as a bar/restaurant is actively operating only the bar, for the lack of a cook. Examples like this were plentiful. Is it possible that Ecuador’s unemployment numbers are actually falling? I need more than one set of government stats and some collaborative anecdotal evidence…but I am watching. At the very least this goes against those claims I have seen posted that suggest economic “doom and gloom”. Overall, the sense I got from the people of Ecuador is that they recognize that they could be at a critical crossroads/juncture in terms of political and economic progress. They are hopeful…but guarded. Faith has taught them the former…historical experience the latter. And, as for faith, did I not see on this forum that the Catholic Church was “dead” in Ecuador? Even weekday masses were packed. I saw no less than three large, new Catholic Churches being built. Liberation Theology may still have a place in Ecuador’s theological realm, but the movement peaked in the late 1970s to early 1980s. It still exists…but not at the expense of more traditional Catholicism, which is thriving. Perhaps what some observed was the lack of full embracement of many of the social mores of the Roman Catholic faith, but this erosion has been occurring internationally for decades. Folks want to be “good Catholics”, but they don’t want the church parked in their living room, affecting every aspect of their daily lives. This I did sense in Ecuador.
In short, the trip was great…Ecuador was a joy. I can’t wait to relocate. On my trip back I waited in a long line at Immigration in the U.S., after walking what seemed like forever simply to get to the security check point. Again, I had to disrobe “for security purposes”…no such disrobing in Ecuador. Then another trek to Customs, where along the way 4 separate individuals had to look at my Customs form, before the final one finally accepted it. Four Customs form check points? Four? Is this really necessary? Ecuador seems to get by with one. This must be the new U.S. employment program model, where the only sector expanding is government hires. I knew…right then and there…I was back “home”.
I close on the preceding point, because way back at the beginning I promised to tie in the issue of U.S. airlines and silly airport policies to Ecuador. I meant it…there is a tie-in. In Ecuador, I continue to see a nation evolving. The U.S. is already a more evolved nation. Perhaps not by the standards of the deep and rich historical context of Europe or, say, China…but the U.S. is by some definitions more “evolved” than Ecuador. As Ecuador makes its future choices, I hope residents there will consider the U.S. airlines industry. An industry so overwrought with excessive government regulation and intervention that it limped into the 1980s as “damaged goods”. Then, as though expecting a miracle, the government deregulated the industry…handed the tattered mess completely over to the private sector and said, “Do something with this.” The private sector complied…and what they did was make an equal mess of it. Why? Well, if you ask me, it is because once private enterprise has been damaged by the excesses of government interference and regulation, even a return to saner private-sector policies cannot often undo the damage already done by decades of government mismanagement. Capitalism is not perfect…in fact, it sucks. It still sucks less than any other economic system we’ve come to develop thus far as a human race. As Ecuador evolves and as the people face critical crossroad decisions, I hope they will think twice before allowing solutions to fall away from the private sector into government hands. Or their future may soar only as brightly, as the U.S. airline industry.
I also hope that the people of Ecuador will not fall prey to the siren’s call. They will face many decisions on important political, economic and social factors, as their country continues to dynamically evolve. The siren will call…she will tempt you with “solutions” promising “security”… “economic relief”… “greater efficiency”. Don’t forget to ask the question…“At what price?” The solution isn’t always one more regulation…one more tax…one more civil liberty sacrificed. Otherwise, you wind up like the U.S., with ridiculous airport “security policies” that at best, do nothing to limit risk, while creating great inconvenience, and at worst are nothing more than smoke and mirrors to prop up failed enterprises. You wind up like the U.S. promising that just one more tax hike will provide the development funds required for progress…only to discover that the only folks who “progressed” are political cronies. You might find that, like in the U.S., you will be promised greater efficiency if only we can have your social security number…special ID…some similar nonsense…which when you wake up a decade or two hence you find has been used to trade efficiency for the loss of liberty. Sometimes…the solution does not reside in the siren's call… sometimes the best solutions are found in commonsense…basic liberties…and allowing for the spontaneous often chaotic process known as human nature…with fewer rules and greater creativity…with lesser taxes and more government spending accountability…with less of an emphasis on personal security and more of an emphasis on securing liberty, freedom and democracy. The U.S. has much to offer…much to emulate…but I hope the folks of Ecuador don’t buy into this model as the only solution...the only “right way”, just as much as I hope that they don’t knee-jerk reject everything they could learn from the “American” experience. If the former, the Ecuadorian people may also have to face a future replete with the dreaded horror of “Coca-Cola bottles at the airport”…if the latter, they may find themselves in an economic wasteland like Cuba. The Ecuadorian people deserve better than either. Their advantage is that only now are they shaping their future evolution.
If nothing more…I leave you with that thought…as Ecuador left me with the lingering thought of simplistic acts of sanity. Such as walking into one restaurant where smoking is not allowed…and walking two doors down to one where smoking was allowed. The taste of freedom…of choice…of liberty. So sweet in Ecuador…so bittersweet in the U.S. of today. What will Ecuador do, when the siren calls?
HGQ
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin
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